Living in Moshi, Chemka hot springs (also known as Kikuletwa hot springs or maji moto hot springs) are one of the places I visit regularly, regardless of the fact that they are becoming less and less crowded each time I visit. For tourists, I would say they are one of the best activities in Arusha and Moshi, and if you have a few extra days before or after your safari, then they are still places you should not miss just to enjoy the relaxing atmosphere. You might not believe how tiresome a trip can be until you take one, so don’t forget to squeeze a few less active days into your itinerary!
What it is. Why is it one of the best activities in Moshi, Tanzania?
Chemka or Kikuletwa Hot Springs is this remote little oasis located off the main road between Moshi and Arusha, which are the two main starting points for Kilimanjaro climbs and northern safaris to parks like the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. You’ll be driving down the dusty road for a long time (unless you go during the rainy season, when you’re likely to get stuck in the mud) for a long time, and then suddenly boom, there it is. Glorious, clear blue water surrounded by dense trees that only scream one thing: jump!
With the name “hot springs” you might think the water is actually hot or at least warm, but it’s not …… it’s actually the perfect temperature to refresh and stay in for a long time without catching a cold. Please note that you need to know how to swim as it is too deep to stand and there is a bit of current.
Chemka Hot Springs is divided into 2 areas, between which you can swim through a narrow canal filled with dead branches and overhanging palm leaves. The first area is the one you enter and is the smallest of the two. Here you’ll see local boys performing acrobatic rope jumps, people sitting on the shore, and in general, this is definitely the liveliest and most lively part of the spa. This is also the area where the light penetrates the trees in a very spectacular way at certain times of the day. The second area is bigger, quieter, and less covered with trees, perfect for floating quietly in the sun.
Besides jumping rope, other fun activities were flipping tires or letting the minnows on the border eat the dead skin off your feet (this last activity was definitely not my idea of fun, but some people seemed to enjoy it).
If you are going by car, the hot springs are 1.5 hours from Moshi and 2 hours from Arusha. If you don’t want to organize your own trip or don’t know a reliable driver, you can arrange your own cab or book a trip with a registered tour company in Moshi or Arusha.
Another way to get there is to combine public transport with cheap local private transport. Start by taking a daladala (minibus) to Boma N’gombe, then find a bajaji (tuk-tuk) willing to take you to the hot springs. Please note that the road from Boma N’gombe is very bumpy and bajajis are definitely not the most comfortable means of transportation. As for the daladala part, it may not be as bumpy, but there is a Tanzanian proverb that says “There is one thing in Tanzania that is never full: the daladala”, so if you have trouble sharing your personal belongings, you should avoid this option with 17 other people (just like you) sweating it out in a crowded daladala. If you choose this option, leave early as it will take well over 1.5 or 2 hours to get there.
If you want to take a long ride in the sun, you can also bike to Cheamuka. There are bike rental points in Moshi and Arusha, and most tour operators can arrange this for you.
The price of course depends on your mode of transportation, whether you go with a group or on your own. If you choose a cab or public transportation, you will have to test your negotiation skills to get a fair price for the bajaji or cab portion, otherwise you may end up paying with an organized tour.
The number of people in your group also has a significant impact on the price, and the difference between the different modes of transportation may become greater or lesser depending on this.
The following is an overview of prices to Kikuletwa Hot Springs from Moshi.
Day trip to Chemka Hot Springs with a tour operator.
The correct price is $45 per person for a group of 4 to 6 people, $55 per person for a group of 3 people or $65 per person for a group of 2 people. This includes transportation, entrance fees, food, drinks and the services of not necessarily a guide but a driver who knows the place, can give you more information about the hot springs as well as Tanzania and who will take care of everything for you (including watching your stuff while swimming).
You can find it cheaper, but if you do, you’re less likely to deal with a registered tourist business that pays taxes and licenses and does things by the book.
By taxi.
If you negotiate, a cab (regular car, up to 4 people) will take you to the spa for about 100.000 TZS. for this amount, they should wait for you until you are done.
If you are not with a group, the entrance fee is between 20.000 and 25.000 TZS per person.
For a group of 2 people, this brings the total to aprrox. 75.000 TZS per person or $33, not including food, drinks and guide service.
Add about $7 per person for spa food and beverages and you will pay $40 per person if you do not have a guide.
By public transportation.
The cost of the daladala ride from Moshi to Boma N’gombe should not exceed TZS 2000 per person.
For the bajaji trip, you really have to negotiate, as they may ask you for more than the cab price. It is hard to give an estimate because bajaji drivers can be very stubborn and insist on the excessive prices they ask, but the price you pay for each bajaji should not exceed 30.000 TZS. for this amount they should wait for you until you are done. Remember that cabs can accommodate 4 people while bajaji can only accommodate 2 people (short trips can accommodate 3 people, but don’t underestimate how long it will take before you decide to take 1 bajaji for 3 people).
If you are not with a group, the entrance fee is between 20.000 and 25.000 TZS per person.
For a group of 2 people, this brings the total cost to 42.000 TZS or $18 per person, not including food, drinks and guide service.
Add to this the cost of spa food and beverages of about $7 per person, and you will pay $25 per person if you do not have a guide.
If you have enough time, I would say any option is right for you, depending on your budget and the level of adventure you want. However, if, like many people visiting Tanzania, you only have 1 or 2 days in Moshi or Arusha and have just returned from a safari, you may be more tired than expected and a tour operator or cab option may be a better choice. Don’t forget to consider how important it is for you to have a driver who can provide you with more information, because unless you book your tour through a tour company, you won’t be able to get that service.
